Thessalonica

“Now when they (Paul and Silas) had passed through Amphipolis and Apollonia, they came to Thessalonica, where was a synagogue of the Jews: 2  And Paul, as his manner was, went in unto them, and three sabbath days reasoned with them out of the scriptures,” – Acts 17:1,2

Ancient theater, Thessalonica.
Roman Agora (marketplace), Thessalonica.
More ruins at Thessaloniki.

The Roman road, Via Egnatia, passed through Thessalonica and connected Byzantium to the region of Illyricum on the Eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea across from Italy. Today the region of Illyricum is part of the country of Albania. Paul very likely traveled the Via Egnatia as he journeyed to Illyricum.

” Through mighty signs and wonders, by the power of the Spirit of God; so that from Jerusalem, and round about unto Illyricum, I have fully preached the gospel of Christ.” – Romans 15:19

When Paul arrived in Thessalonica there was already a Jewish community there. For three sabbaths “he reasoned with them out of the scriptures”, most likely in the synagogue. Paul later wrote two letters to the church at Thessalonica. In the first letter, Paul commended them for their diligence in evangelism throughout the region of Macedonia and Achaia. Achaia encompassed the region to the South of Greece including Athens, Corinth, and the Peloponnese peninsula.

“So that ye were ensamples to all that believe in Macedonia and Achaia. 8  For from you sounded out the word of the Lord not only in Macedonia and Achaia, but also in every place your faith to God-ward is spread abroad;” – 1 Thes. 1:7,8

Aegean Sea from Thessaloniki.

The Jewish population of Thessalonica surged in 1492 when Spain expelled their Jewish population. A fire in 1917 devastated the Jewish quarter. At that time the Jewish population exceeded 65,000 people. Interestingly, it was in 1917 that the Balfour Declaration set the stage for the establishment of the state of Israel.

During WW2 Greece was occupied by Germany. Between March and August 1943, more than 45,000 Jewish people from Thessalonica were shipped to Auschwitz where they died in the death camps. The once large and vibrant Jewish community was all but wiped out.

The only synagogue in Thessalonica that was not damaged during WW2 was the Monastir Synagogue. During the war the Red Cross used the synagogue as a warehouse.

The Ten Commandments displayed on the Monastir Synagogue in Thessalonica.

The Jewish Museum was opened in Thessalonica’s old Jewish quarter in 2001. It definitely merits a visit for anyone interested in Jewish history.

Assos

And we went before to ship, and sailed unto Assos, there intending to take in Paul: for so had he appointed, minding himself to go afoot. And when he met with us at Assos, we took him in, and came to Mitylene. – Act 20:13,14

Ancient Roman theater at Assos.

On the return of the third missionary journey Paul walked the distance from Troas to Assos while the other eight in his party sailed the distance. Those accompanying Paul were “…Sopater of Berea; and of the Thessalonians, Aristarchus and Secundus; and Gaius of Derbe, and Timotheus; and of Asia, Tychicus and Trophimus. 5  These going before tarried for us at Troas. – Acts 20:4,5 Luke, the writer of Acts included himself in verse 5.

Not much is said about Assos other than that they all met up there and continued to Mitylene. On a clear day the northern coast of Mitylene island can be seen from Assos on mainland Turkey.

Today the mainstay of Assos seems to be fishing and tourism. Departing from Troas, we spent only a couple hours in Assos before continuing south toward Berga Turkey (ancient Pergamos).

Troas

“…when I came to Troas to preach Christ’s gospel, and a door was opened unto me of the Lord,” 2 Corinthians 2:12

Ruins at ancient Troas. Aegean Sea and the Turkish island of Bozcaada in background.

It was at Troas, during his second missionary journey, that the Apostle Paul received the “Macedonian Call”. “And a vision appeared to Paul in the night; There stood a man of Macedonia, and prayed him, saying, Come over into Macedonia, and help us.” – Acts 16:9

The vision at Troas changed Paul’s course. Rather than continuing to Bythinia, the region just South of the Black Sea, Paul immediately set sail for Macedonia.

During the time of the Roman Empire, Troas was a major port for sailing vessels traveling between Anatolia (Turkey) and Europe. The Apostle Paul passed through Troas on both his second and third missionary journeys.

The day we visited Troas, we had it all to ourselves. A narrow dirt road leads to the archeological site. The view of the Aegean Sea from Troas is spectacular.

From Troas to Assos

And we went before to ship, and sailed unto Assos, there intending to take in Paul: for so had he appointed, minding himself to go afoot. – Acts 20:13

Remains of the road that Paul most likely walked as he made his way from Troas down to Assos, where he met up with the others in his party.

Temple of Apollon Smintheion – Traveling from Troas to Assos, we took a coastal road. As we entered the village of Gulpinar we couldn’t help but notice the archeological site of Smintheion. The temple was dedicated to Apollo, “Lord of Mice.” A poem in Homer’s Iliad makes reference to the temple.

We found a small restaurant in Gulpinar and enjoyed a wonderful lunch before continuing to Assos. Along the way we passed some sheepfolds. My mind turned to John chapter 10 where Jesus, the Good Shepherd said ” I am the door: by me if any man enter in, he shall be saved, and shall go in and out, and find pasture.” – John 10:9

Philippi

“And from thence to Philippi, which is the chief city of that part of Macedonia, and a colony: and we were in that city abiding certain days.” – Acts 16:12

Ancient theater at Philippi.

During his second missionary journey, the Apostle Paul had his eyes set on Asia. God had other plans, and while in Troas, “There stood a man of Macedonia, and prayed him, saying, Come over into Macedonia and help us.” – Acts 16:9

Not many days later, Paul and company arrived in Philippi, “the chief city of that part of Macedonia….”- Acts 16:12

Inscribed on the lower sections of the two stones “Province Macedonia” and “Philip”. Philippi was named after Phillip II, father of Alexander the Great. Before being named Philippi, the city was knows as Krinides and was a colony of nearby Thassos island. A village adjacent to Philippi bears the name “Krinides”.
A tile mosaic in the entrance of a Greek orthodox church near the baptism site of Lydia maps out much of Paul’s second missionary journey. The names of the cities in English were photo edited in.

Acts 16:13  And on the sabbath we went out of the city by a river side, where prayer was wont to be made; and we sat down, and spake unto the women which resorted thither.
14  And a certain woman named Lydia, a seller of purple, of the city of Thyatira, which worshipped God, heard us: whose heart the Lord opened, that she attended unto the things which were spoken of Paul.
15  And when she was baptized, and her household, she besought us, saying, If ye have judged me to be faithful to the Lord, come into my house, and abide there. And she constrained us.

The place thought to be the baptism site of Lydia is less than one mile from the ancient theater at Philippi.

Neapolis (Kavala Greece)

Therefore loosing from Troas, we came with a straight course to Samothracia, and the next day to Neapolis; – Acts 16:11

Kavala Greece (Neapolis)

During his second missionary journey, the Apostle Paul arrived at Neapolis (Kavala) on his way to Philippi. He returned to the area during his third missionary journey. “And we sailed away from Philippi…..” – Acts 20:6.

Neapolis was the port city for Philippi. The city was on the Via Egnatia, the Roman road running East to West, connecting Byzantium (Constantinople/Istanbul) to the Adriatic cost. The modern highway is known as the Egnatia Odos and parallels the old Roman road from Thessaloniki, Eastward through Kavala (Neapolis), and into Turkey. A section of the old Roman road is still visible along the highway from Kavala to Philippi.

Kavala is served by “Alexander the Great Airport” as well as a host of ferry lines that serve the islands in the Northern Mediterranean.

Samothrace Greece

“…. loosing from Troas, we came with a straight course to Samothracia, and the next day to Neapolis; 12  And from thence to Philippi, which is the chief city of that part of Macedonia…” – Acts 16:11,12

The port on the Greek island of Samothrace.

During the apostle Paul’s second missionary journey, he received the Macedonian call while at Troas, “Come over into Macedonia and help us.” – Acts 16:9. Paul and company immediately set sail for Neapolis (modern day Kavala Greece), with a stop on the island of Samothrace.

The island was a seat of cult worship. There are significant ruins on the North side of the island. The complex is known as “The Sanctuary of the Great Gods.”

Samothrace can be reached by ferryboat from both Alexandroupolis and Kavala Greece. We took a ferry from Alexandroupolis. The trip took about two hours.

Mitylene (Lesvos island), Greece

“And when he met with us at Assos, we took him in, and came to Mitylene.” – Acts 20:14

Mytilene, the capitol city of Lesvos island.

The Greek island of Lesvos, also known as Mitylene, was visited by the apostle Paul while returning from his third missionary journey. Leaving Troas, Paul walked the distance to Assos while the rest of his party made the journey by sailing ship. Meeting up in Assos, they sailed the short distance to Mitylene, not more than 30 miles.

Paul and his companions stopped briefly on the island in the year AD 56. From Mitylene, the party sailed near the island of Chios before arriving on the island of Samos.

Getting there – Lesvos can be reached by ferry boat from Athens and Thessaloniki, as well as from Avalik Turkey. Flights arrive regularly from Athens and Thessaloniki. A great resource that we often use for searching flights is skyscanner.net.

Lesvos during the refugee crisis

The war in Syria sparked a mass migration to Europe, specifically to Germany, following German Chancellor Angela’s Merkel’s invitation in August 2015. Ten’s of thousands made the approximately 2500 mile journey from Turkey to Germany. For many, Lesvos island was their gateway to Europe.

In November 2015 we were living in Sofia Bulgaria. After watching the news reports and reading the headlines surrounding the refugee crisis, my wife asked me if I had thought about going to Lesvos. I responded, “yes, it’s been on my mind, but I didn’t think you would be interested.” Two days later we drove our car from Sofia to Thessaloniki and caught a flight to Mytilene. We witnessed history in the making. The people we met and the things we saw were life changing.