Tel Dan Israel

The Dan River is a major tributary of the Jordan River. Snow melt and rain percolate through the layers of rock at the base of Mount Hermon until emerging as a large spring at Dan. The flow of the spring exceeds 24 million cubic feet of water per day.

The region of Dan is located in the northernmost part of Israel. The Bible often speaks of the region “from Dan to Beersheba” when speaking of the entire nation of Israel from north to south. 1 Kings 4:25  “And Judah and Israel dwelt safely, every man under his vine and under his fig tree, from Dan even to Beersheba, all the days of Solomon.”

Dan takes it’s name from Jacob’s fifth born son, born to Rachel’s handmaid Bilhah. Genesis 30:5,6

The tribe of Dan originally dwelt in an area along the Mediterranean Sea, West of Jerusalem. They found it difficult to dwell among the Amorites and the Phillistines and sought out a new homeland. They conquered Leshem (Laish) in the far north of Israel, about 24 miles north of the Sea of Galilee.

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Joshua 19:47  And the coast of the children of Dan went out too little for them: therefore the children of Dan went up to fight against Leshem, and took it, and smote it with the edge of the sword, and possessed it, and dwelt therein, and called Leshem, Dan, after the name of Dan their father.

Dan in the Book of Judges.

Judges chapter 18 records the account of the Tribe of Dan sending out men to spy out the land of Laish. Along the way the spies passed through the land of Ephraim where they lodged in the house of Micah. There they met a Levite of Bethlehem-judah who signed on to be a priest in the house of Micah in exchange for “ten shekels of silver by the year, and a suit of apparel, and thy victuals.” Judges 17:10

The Danite spies sought God’s blessing on their planned takeover of Laish through Micah’s hired personal priest. He told them what they wanted to hear. “Ask counsel, we pray thee, of God, that we may know whether our way which we go shall be prosperous. And the priest said unto them, Go in peace: before the LORD is your way wherein ye go.” – Judges 18:5,6

The Danite spies departed from Ephraim and continued on to Laish. There they saw a people that would be easy to conquer and a lush and fertile land with an abundance of water.

At Tel Dan there is an abundance of spring water, flora, and fauna. “where there is no want of any thing that is in the earth.” – Judges 18:10

Returning to their people, the Danite spies gave their report, after which “Six hundred men appointed with weapons of war” set out to conquer the land of Laish. On their journey to Laish, they passed through Ephraim and came to the house of Micah. From the house of Micah they took the graven image (idol) that Micah’s mother had made from 200 shekels of silver, the ephod (a priestly garment) , and his teraphim (family idol, household god). Judges 18:17 They convinced Micah’s personal Levite priest to come with them to Laish. “Go with us, and be to us a father and a priest: is it better for thee to be a priest unto the house of one man, or that thou be a priest unto a tribe and a family in Israel?” – Judges 18:19

The Levite priest was more than happy to join the Danites. “And the priest’s heart was glad, and he took the ephod, and the teraphim, and the graven image, and went in the midst of the people. So they turned and departed, and put the little ones and the cattle and the carriage before them.”

“And they (the Danites) took the things which Micah had made, and the priest which he had, and came unto Laish, unto a people that were at quiet and secure: and they smote them with the edge of the sword, and burnt the city with fire.
28  And there was no deliverer, because it
(Laish) was far from Zidon, and they had no business with any man; and it was in the valley that lieth by Bethrehob. And they built a city, and dwelt therein.
29  And they called the name of the city Dan, after the name of Dan their father, who was born unto Israel: howbeit the name of the city was Laish at the first.
30  And the children of Dan set up the graven image: and Jonathan, the son of Gershom, the son of Manasseh, he and his sons were priests to the tribe of Dan until the day of the captivity of the land.
31  And they set them up Micah’s graven image, which he made, all the time that the house of God was in Shiloh.”

“Ten Shekels and a Shirt” sermon preached in 1965 by Paris Reidhead. Sermon text: Judges chapters 17 and 18.

Israelite walls at Tel Dan

More Idolatry at Dan

1 Kings 12:28,29 “… the king (Jeroboam) took counsel, and made two calves of gold, and said unto them, It is too much for you to go up to Jerusalem: behold thy gods, O Israel, which brought thee up out of the land of Egypt.  And he set the one in Bethel, and the other put he in Dan.

Jeroboam’s altar of sacrifice at Dan. Sacrifices were made to a golden calf which was placed on the platform behind the altar of sacrifice.

The platform where the golden calf was placed. To the left of the platform is the altar of sacrifice.

Canaanite Ruins at Tel Dan

The Canaanite gate at Tel Dan was discovered in 1979. It has been suggested that Abraham may have entered through this very gate while pursuing Lot’s captors.

Genesis 14:14-16  “And when Abram heard that his brother was taken captive, he armed his trained servants, born in his own house, three hundred and eighteen, and pursued them unto Dan. And he divided himself against them, he and his servants, by night, and smote them, and pursued them unto Hobah, which is on the left hand of Damascus. And he brought back all the goods, and also brought again his brother Lot, and his goods, and the women also, and the people.”

Travel notes:

We found it convenient to book a couple nights lodging near Chorazin while taking in the sites around the Sea of Galilee and Dan. The drive from the Sea of Galilee to Dan takes about 45 minutes. Caesarea Philippi (Banias) is less than 10 minutes by car from the Dan Nature Reserve. The Druze village of Mas Ada in nearby Golan is a great place to find some amazing cuisine.

  • Appetizers at an eatery in Mas Ada. The flat bread and kebabs were amazing!

Entering the Golan Heights just East of Banias (Caesarea Philippi).

Animals of the Bible Lands.

Nubian Ibex (Wild Goat)

“And it came to pass, when Saul was returned from following the Philistines, that it was told him, saying, Behold, David is in the wilderness of Engedi.
2  Then Saul took three thousand chosen men out of all Israel, and went to seek David and his men upon the rocks of the wild goats.” – 1 Samuel 24:1,2

A young Nubian ibex, also known as a Rock Goat or Wild Goat. Photo taken near Eilat Israel, at the North shore of the Red Sea.

“Knowest thou the time when the wild goats of the rock bring forth?” – Job 39:1

Yotvata Hai-Bar Nature Reserve

Most of the following photos were taken during a drive through the Yotvata Hai-Bar Nature Reserve located in Southern Israel between Eilat and Timna Park. The animals roam freely within the 12 square km reserve.

Ostrich

“Gavest thou the goodly wings unto the peacocks? or wings and feathers unto the ostrich?” – Job 39:13

Ostrich at the Hai-Bar nature Reserve near Yotvata Israel, just north of Eilat.

Wild Ass

“Who hath sent out the wild ass free? or who hath loosed the bands of the wild ass?” – Job 39:5

Somali Wild Ass at Israel’s Hai-Bar Nature Reserve near Yotvata. There are reportedly fewer than 1000 in the wild.

Coney, aka Rock Badger or Hyrax.

“The conies are but a feeble folk, yet make they their houses in the rocks;” – Proverbs 30:26

Image captured near Israel’s Dead Sea by Elina_N from Pixabay.

Addax, aka antelope or pygarg? – Deut. 14:5

The pygarg is included in a list of animals permitted to eat in Deuteronomy 14:5. This is the only reference to this beautiful creature in the Bible.

An addax at the Yotvata Hai-Bar Nature Reserve.

Oryx

The oryx is believed by many to be the unicorn spoken of in eight passages in the Bible, including Psalm 29:6 – “He maketh them also to skip like a calf; Lebanon and Sirion like a young unicorn.”

Scimitar horned oryx at the Yotvata Hai-Bar Nature Reserve.
White oryx at the Yotvata Hai-Bar Nature Reserve.

Two days in Israel.

Our flight to Israel arrived at Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport about 9:00 am. In less than an hour we were in our rental car and on our way to Jaffa (Joppa), a 30 minute drive from the airport.

Jaffa

Fishing boat at the Jaffa port.

At Jaffa, Jonah “found a ship going to Tarshish: so he paid the fare thereof, and went down into it, to go with them unto Tarshish from the presence of the LORD.” – Jonah 1:3.

At Jaffa, wood was brought in from Lebanon for use in constructing Solomon’s Temple.“Solomon determined to build an house for the name of the LORD, and an house for his kingdom.” – 2 Chronicles 2:1 “And we will cut wood out of Lebanon, as much as thou shalt need: and we will bring it to thee in floats by sea to Joppa; and thou shalt carry it up to Jerusalem.” – 2 Chronicles 2:16

Again, during the time of Ezra, wood was brought in from Lebanon for use in the temple reconstruction. “They gave money also unto the masons, and to the carpenters; and meat, and drink, and oil, unto them of Zidon, and to them of Tyre, to bring cedar trees from Lebanon to the sea of Joppa, according to the grant that they had of Cyrus king of Persia.” – Ezra 3:7

At Jaffa Tabitha was raised from the dead. – Acts 9:36-42

At Jaffa (Joppa), Peter was praying on Simon’s rooftop when the men sent by Cornelius came for him. Acts chapter 10.

Caesarea

Leaving Jaffa around 11:30 am we passed through Tel Aviv on our way to Caesarea. When we stopped for lunch we heard the hissing sound of air leaking from one of the tires on the rental car. Fortunately there was a tire shop nearby and we weren’t delayed long.

Caesarea was one of King Herod’s massive building projects including the Temple Mount and Masada. Caesarea has been called “Rome away from Rome.” The Roman centurion Cornelius was stationed at Caesarea when he sent for Peter.

It was at Caesarea that the Apostle Paul was “kept in Herod’s judgement hall” (Acts 23:35 until Ananias the high priest and Tertullus (a Jewish Lawyer) arrived from Jerusalem. Following his trial at Caesarea, Paul was sent to Rome to appeal his charges before Caesar.

King Herod’s pool at Ceasarea, located on the Mediterranean Sea just north of Tel Aviv.
Caesarea coastline.

At Caesarea are the remains of a man made harbor, a large hippodrome where chariot races were held, an ancient theater, an aqueduct, and remains of the city walls.

Remains of an aqueduct at Caesarea.

We departed from Caesarea in mid afternoon headed for the Sea of Galilee. Normally the drive would take about an hour and a half but we lost some time while looking for a viewpoint of the Jezreel Valley from Mount Carmel. We arrived in Capernaum about 4:00 pm, just as it was closing and the last of the tour buses were leaving.

Capernaum

With the crowds of tourists gone, we sat in the quietness of the late afternoon, gazing out over the Sea of Galilee, savoring the moment, taking in the place where so much of Christ’s ministry took place.

A Greek Orthodox Monastery at Capernaum was about the only place still open so late in the day.

Donkeys near the Greek Orthodox Monastery at Capernaum.

Capernaum to Jerusalem

Leaving Capernaum, we traveled South along the Western shore of the Sea of Galilee, passing the city of Tiberius and continuing South through the Jordan River Valley.

A tank that I assume is from the Six Day War was abandoned along highway 90. The highway traverses the Jordan River Valley from the Sea of Galilee all the way South to the Red Sea at Eilat.

Beit Shean

As we made our way from Capernaum to Jerusalem we made a brief stop at Beit-Shean. It was late in the day and well past visiting hours. We stood outside the fence and gazed at the ruins during the last light of the day. The archeological site at Beit Shean merits at least 3-4 hours. It can be very hot during the Summer and early Fall.

The Roman ruins at Beit Shean are impressive. The hill in the background is reported to be the place where the slain bodies of Saul and his sons were hung on the wall of Beit Shean by the Philistines. (1 Chronicles chapter 10)
Roman theater at Beit Shean.

Continuing South through the Jordan River Valley there is a junction just past Jericho. To the South is the Dead Sea and to the West is Jerusalem. We turned onto highway 1 toward Jerusalem and began the ascent from the Dead Sea region, 1300 feet below sea level, to Jerusalem, about 2500 feet above sea level. Somewhere along the way we surely passed the place where the Samaritan came to the aid of a man that was robbed, beaten, and left for dead (Luke 10:25-37).

By the time we arrived in Jerusalem about twelve hours had passed since arriving at the airport in Tel Aviv that morning. After locating our hotel and a place to park the rental car, we set out to find something to eat along the Ben Yehuda walking street, adjacent to Jerusalem’s Old City.

Day 2 – Israel

Jerusalem

Gazing toward the Mount of Olives. The Western Wall and the Temple Mount are in the left foreground.
Western Wall, Old City Jerusalem
Garden Tomb, Jerusalem

On the morning of our second day we stopped for coffee along the Ben Yehuda walk street before entering the old city at the Jaffa Gate.

Inside Jerusalem’s Old City we took in the sites at the Western Wall and Temple Mount before passing through the Muslim quarter and exiting through the Damascus Gate.

The Garden Tomb is a short walk from the Damascus Gate.

By the time we finished up at the Garden Tomb we had been walking for the better part of five hours and welcomed a break. We ate lunch at the Ramon Cafe near Zion Square before walking back to our hotel.

The Dead Sea

Salt crystals at the Dead Sea.

After a short nap we discussed our options for the remainder of the day and decided to drive down to the Dead Sea, about a 40 minute drive East of Jerusalem.

Kalia Beach at the North shore of the Dead Sea is a popular soak. The mud is therapeutic and the water is almost ten times saltier than ocean water.

It’s impossible to sink but don’t get the water in your eyes as it is very unpleasant and the only way to get relief is by flushing with fresh water.

After a relaxing soak we hydrated with some fresh pomegranate juice and continued South along the Western shoreline of the Dead Sea.

We passed Qumran, the place where the Dead Sea scrolls were discovered and continued driving down the coastline as far as En Gedi.

At En Gedi David “dwelt in the strongholds” as he fled Saul. 1 Samuel 23:29

Solomon likened his lover to “a cluster of camphire in the vineyards of Engedi.” – Song of Solomon 1:14

We enjoyed a dinner buffet at the Kibbutz in En Gedi before driving back to Jerusalem.

The following morning we drove to the airport, turned in the rental car and returned to Sofia on a direct flight with WizzAir.

Galilee

The Sea of Galilee from Ginosar looking East toward the Golan Heights.

Mount Arbel at the Western shore of the Sea of Galilee. Although not mentioned in the Bible, Jesus would have passed through the gap at the Western slope of Mount Arbel as He journeyed between the regions of Capernaum, Nazareth, and Jerusalem.

Capernaum

“Now when Jesus had heard that John was cast into prison, he departed into Galilee; 13  And leaving Nazareth, he came and dwelt in Capernaum, which is upon the sea coast, in the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim:” – Matt. 4:12,13

Ruins of a synagogue at Capernaum reportedly from the 4th century AD and built on top of the ruins of the synagogue where Jesus taught.

Chorazin

“Woe unto thee, Chorazin! woe unto thee, Bethsaida! for if the mighty works had been done in Tyre and Sidon, which have been done in you, they had a great while ago repented, sitting in sackcloth and ashes.” – Luke 10:13

Synagogue ruins at Chorazin.

The Chorazin archeological site is high on the hill above the Northern shore of the Sea of Galilee, about 10 minutes by car from Capernaum.

The Seven Churches of Asia

“I am Alpha and Omega, the first and the last: and, What thou seest, write in a book, and send it unto the seven churches which are in Asia; unto Ephesus, and unto Smyrna, and unto Pergamos, and unto Thyatira, and unto Sardis, and unto Philadelphia, and unto Laodicea.” – Revelation 1:11

Map: commons.wikimedia.org

The sites of the “Seven Churches of Asia are all in Western Turkey. The nearest airports are at Izmir (Smyrna) and Denizli, near Laodicia.

Near Laodicea is ancient Hieropolis. Colosse is also in the area but has not been excavated.

Colossians 4:13  For I bear him record, that he hath a great zeal for you, and them that are in Laodicea, and them in Hierapolis.

Ephesus

Of all seven archeological sites associated with the “Seven Churches of Asia”, the ruins at Ephesus are the most substantial. In order to walk downhill and not backtrack, it works out well to park in the main lot and hire one of the horse drawn carriages to shuttle you to the entrance at the upper end of the ruins.

Smyrna

“And unto the angel of the church in Smyrna write; These things saith the first and the last, which was dead, and is alive;” – Rev. 2:8

Ancient Agora (marketplace), Smyrna, modern day Izmir Turkey.

Izmir Turkey (ancient Smyrna) is about 50 miles North of Ephesus and about 70 miles South of ancient Pergamos (Bergama Turkey). Izmir is on Turkey’s Aegean coast and is the third largest city in the country, with a population of more than four million people.

Early church history: Polycarp (AD 69 -156) was longtime pastor at Smyrna. He was very likely a disciple of the Apostle John. Polycarp died a martyr’s death at the hands of the Romans.

Kemeralti Market, Izmir. Lots of shops and eateries.

Pergamos

“And to the angel of the church in Pergamos write; These things saith he which hath the sharp sword with two edges;” – Rev. 2:12

Ancient columns at Pergamos.

“I know thy works, and where thou dwellest, even where Satan’s seat is: and thou holdest fast my name, and hast not denied my faith, even in those days wherein Antipas was my faithful martyr, who was slain among you, where Satan dwelleth.” – Rev. 2:13

Two trees at the site of the Temple of Zeus, also known as the Pergamos Altar, “where Satans’s seat is”. Rev. 2:13

The Pergamon Altar was constructed during the reign of King Eumenes II during the 2nd century BC. As the polytheistic religions became overshadowed by Christianity the Pergamon Altar was abandoned and for the next 2000 years fell into obscurity until the late 1870’s.

In 1871, German archeologist Carl Humann sent fragments of the Pergamon altar to Berlin, the same year the German Empire was established. Excavation of the site began in earnest in 1878 and within a year, relief panels and friezes from the Pergamon Altar were being shipped to Berlin.

The first “Pergamon Museum” opened in Berlin in 1901. At the end of World War II the Red Army took parts of the altar to the Soviet Union as a war trophy. The altar remained in Leningrad (Saint Petersburg) until 1958 when it was returned to East Germany.

Hitler’s chief architect Albert Speer found inspiration from the Pergamon Altar when he designed the Nazi Party rally grounds in Nuremberg. It was here that Hitler announced his “final solution”known as the Holocaust that resulted in the death of six million Jews and others.

Millions were put to death under the totalitarian communist regimes of the Soviet Union. Is it a mere coincidence that the Nazis and the Soviets, responsible for millions upon millions of deaths, were the keepers of Pergamon’s “Seat of Satan”?

Thyatira

“And unto the angel of the church in Thyatira write; These things saith the Son of God, who hath his eyes like unto a flame of fire, and his feet are like fine brass;” – Rev. 2:18

Ruins at ancient Thyatira.

The city of Thyatira is named in the Book of Revelation and also in the Book of Acts. At Philippi, “Lydia, a seller of purple, of the city of Thyatira” received Christ and was baptized. Acts 16:14,15

The ancient Greek city of Thyatira is now the modern Turkish city of Akhisar. The drive from Bergama (Pergamos) to Akhisar (Thyatira) is just over an hour. The ruins of the ancient city are contained in about one block square. Nearby is a museum with exhibits of artifacts found in the area as well as a rug making loom, cultural clothing, and other items.

Sign at Thyatira archeological site.

Sardis

“And unto the angel of the church in Sardis write; These things saith he that hath the seven Spirits of God, and the seven stars; I know thy works, that thou hast a name that thou livest, and art dead.” – Rev. 3:1

Sardis Gymnasium – Bathhouse

The drive from Akhisar (Thyatira) to the ruins at Sardis takes less than an hour. The archeological site spans both sides of the highway. For the fit and adventurous, the Sardis Acropolis sits high atop the hill above the Temple of Artemis ruins.

Sardis Synagogue

The synagogue ruins at Sardis were discovered in 1962. The enormity of the complex indicates a large Jewish population. The writings of Josephus mention a Jewish population at Sardis. “Lucius Antonius, the son of Marcus, vice-quaestor, and vice-pretor, to the magistrates, senate, and people of the Sardians, sendeth greeting. Those Jews that are our fellow-citizens of Rome, came to me, and demonstrated that they had an assembly of their own, according to the laws of their forefathers…….” – Antiquities of the Jews, Book XIV, chap. X, sect. 17. This would indicate a Jewish community in Sardis at least as far back as the 1st Century AD.

An article at https://www.bh.org.il/the-ancient-synagogue-of-sardis-turkey states, ” The beginnings of the Jewish settlement in Sardis are believed to belong to the 3rd century BCE, when Jews from Babylonia and other countries were encouraged to settle in the city by the Seleucid King Antiochus III (223-187 BCE).”

Sardis Temple of Artemis. Construction began about 300 BC.

Philadelphia

And to the angel of the church in Philadelphia write; These things saith he that is holy, he that is true, he that hath the key of David, he that openeth, and no man shutteth; and shutteth, and no man openeth; – Rev 3:7

A Muslim mosque framed between the ruins of a Byzantine church at Philadelphia.

The site of the Philadelphia Church is at the modern Turkish town of Alesehir Turkey, about 30 miles East of the ruins at Sardis. There is not much to see other than the ruins of a Byzantine era church.

Laodicea

“And unto the angel of the church of the Laodiceans write; These things saith the Amen, the faithful and true witness, the beginning of the creation of God;” – Rev 3:14

Ruins at ancient Laodicea.

The archeological site of Laodicea is near the modern Turkish city of Denizli. From Alesehir (Philadelphia) it is about a two hour drive Southeast to the region of Laodicea. While in the area of Laodicea, nearby Hieropolis/Pamukkale is a must see.

Standing at Laodicea, the imagery of Rev. 3:15,16 becomes quite evident. In Jesus’ address to the church at Laodicea He said: “I know thy works, that thou art neither cold nor hot: I would thou wert cold or hot.  So then because thou art lukewarm, and neither cold nor hot, I will spue thee out of my mouth.” – Rev 3:15,16

Looking North from Laodicia, the white cliffs resulting from the hot water springs at Hieropolis/Pamukkale are clearly visible. Looking to the South are the often snow capped mountains in the region of Colosse, a source of cold and clear water. This was the water source for Laodicea. By the time the water flowed through the clay pipes and arrived at Laodicea it was lukewarm.

Beersheba

Genesis 21:33  And Abraham planted a grove in Beersheba, and called there on the name of the LORD, the everlasting God.

Abraham’s well and a tamarisk tree at Beer-sheba.

Beer-Sheba was at the Southern edge of the Promised Land. The Bible makes reference at least eight times to the land from “Dan even to Beersheba” in reference to the Promised Land.

Beer-Sheba, Beersheba, Beersheva, Be’er-sheva……. all refer to the same Israeli city on the Negev Desert in Southern Israel.

The name Beer-Sheba comes from the two Hebrew words, “Be’er” meaning well, as in a water well, and “Sheva” meaning oath or covenant. The name Be’er-sheva means the well of the oath. At Be’er-sheva Abraham made a covenant with King Abimelech regarding the well that he (Abraham) had dug (Gen. 21:22-32)

“Abraham planted a grove (tree) in Be’er-Sheva.” – Gen. 21:33 The word “grove” or tree comes from the Hebrew word eÌ‚shel meaning tamarisk tree.

The tamarisk tree is also known as a salt cedar. The tree extracts salt from the ground and deposits the salt on its needles. During the coolness of night the salt attracts moisture which evaporates during the heat of the day. The tamarisk tree provides shade and coolness from the intense heat of the desert.

Abraham planted a tamarisk (êshel) tree at Beersheva. Our Jewish interpreter at Abraham’s Well told us that the Hebrew word “êshel” can be used as an acronym for three separate Hebrew words meaning eating, drinking, and sleeping. Perhaps this hints at Abraham’s hospitality as recorded in Genesis chapter 18 when he entertained strangers.

Gen 18:4,5 “Let a little water, I pray you, be fetched, and wash your feet, and rest yourselves under the tree: 5  And I will fetch a morsel of bread, and comfort ye your hearts; after that ye shall pass on:”

Approximately 25 years after God came to Abraham in the Ur of the Chaldees, Abraham was finally in the Promised Land with Issac, the son of promise. At Beersheba Abraham planted a tree and “called on the name of the Lord, the everlasting God.” – Gen. 21:33

In planting the tree at Beersheba Abraham was looking to the future. The tree was not just for him, but for those that would come after him. The tree signified that this place belonged to Abraham. Beersheba was Abraham’s undisputed property.

Tel Be’er Sheva

Tel Be’er Sheva is an archeological site about 2 1/2 miles from the city of Beersheva, the capitol city of Israel’s Negev region. The ruins at Tel Be’er Sheva date back to Bible times.

Tel Be’er Sheva ruins.

The Battle of Beersheva, October 31, 1917. The Australia and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC), led by British General Edmund Allenby, mounted an offense against Ottoman defenses at Beersheva. The ANZAC troops pulled off a mounted infantry charge against the Ottoman defenders at Beersheva with only their bayonets in hand. The Ottomans were defeated by the ANZAC Light Horse Brigade. The strategic water wells at Beersheva were taken intact. Six weeks later, on Dec. 9, 1917, the Ottoman troops surrendered the city of Jerusalem to Allied forces.

Interestingly on the same date, Oct. 31, 1917, the British War Cabinet approved the text for what would become the Balfour Declaration that paved the way for the establishment of the modern state of Israel in 1948.

Steam engine at the old Ottoman rail station at Beersheva.
Beersheva in 1915. Photo courtesy of pixabay.

Patmos

“John, who also am your brother, and companion in tribulation, and in the kingdom and patience of Jesus Christ, was in the isle that is called Patmos, for the word of God, and for the testimony of Jesus Christ.” – Rev. 1:9

The island of Patmos as seen from “The Cave of the Apocalypse”.

Patmos is a small, rocky, arid island located off the Western coast of Turkey. It is part of a group of islands in the Aegean Sea between mainland Turkey and Greece known as the Dodecanese Islands.

During the reign of Roman emperor Domitian, the Apostle John was exiled to Patmos to keep him quiet. While on Patmos, John wrote the last book of the Bible, the Book of Revelation, as inspired by God. The book of Revelation is foremost “The Revelation of Jesus Christ” (Rev 1:1). God promises a blessing to all who read the book (Rev 1:3).

Revelation 1:1-3  The Revelation of Jesus Christ, which God gave unto him, to shew unto his servants things which must shortly come to pass; and he sent and signified it by his angel unto his servant John: 2  Who bare record of the word of God, and of the testimony of Jesus Christ, and of all things that he saw. 3  Blessed is he that readeth, and they that hear the words of this prophecy, and keep those things which are written therein: for the time is at hand.

Patmos does not have an airport. The nearby islands of Samos, Leros, Kos, and Kalimnos all have airports and ferry service to Patmos. We began our trip to Patmos from Kusadasi Turkey, not far from Ephesus. At Kusadasi we boarded a Turkish boat to the island of Samos, about twenty miles away. At Samos we traveled by taxi from the island’s northern port of Samos town to the southern port of Pythagoreio where we boarded a ferry to Patmos. The ferry stopped along the way at the islands of Agathonisi and Lipsi.

When we arrived at the Patmos port we saw several people holding placards indicating that they had rooms for rent. We inquired with one of them, agreed on the price, and she took us to her home. The following morning we rented a car and set out to see the sights on Patmos. It didn’t take long since the island is small, only about 13 square miles. The capitol, Chora, is built around a monastery/fortress from the 12th century and is the hub of tourism. The only commercial port is the town of Skala.

Patmos is known as Greek’s “holy” island as it is home to several Greek Orthodox monasteries and more than 100 churches. On the one evening we were there, an international sacred music festival was being held.

A cruise ship departing from Skala, Patmos at dusk.
Windmills on the island of Patmos were used to grind wheat before electricity came to the island.

Agathonisi

Arriving at Agathonisi.

By happenstance we spent a night and most of a day on the island of Agathonisi. I remembered the ticket agent telling me that the trip from Samos to Patmos took about two hours. About two hours into the trip we arrived at a port and just as the ferry was about to pull out I thought to myself “this must be Patmos, we need to get off.” As the ferry began to depart, our daughter stepped across the gap between the Ferry’s bridge and the dock. My wife jumped across the gap as I tossed our bags onto the dock and took a running jump. As the ferry departed I was gathering our bags when a young boy with curly red hair walked up. I asked him, “do you speak English?” He responded “yes” and I then asked him, “is this Patmos?” He replied, “No Sir, this is Agathonisi.”

Fishing boats on the Greek island of Agathonisi.

We arrived in mid afternoon and quickly discovered that the next ferry to Patmos would leave the following day at 6:00 pm. There were only 40 beds on the entire island, not so many tourists. Someone pointed in the direction of a guest house and told us that the woman might have a room. She didn’t speak English and we didn’t speak Greek. Through pantomiming we understood that she had a room available and we would have to be out by noon the next day.

There were few tourists on the island, only a few fishermen, a small team of archeologists and a Greek woman on holiday with her two children. The local restaurant served up fresh seafood brought in by local fishermen. The fresh produce and cheese all came from the island. Agathonisi ended up being the highlight of our trip to Patmos.

Samos Town on the island of Samos.

We visited Patmos in August, 2009.

Thessalonica

“Now when they (Paul and Silas) had passed through Amphipolis and Apollonia, they came to Thessalonica, where was a synagogue of the Jews: 2  And Paul, as his manner was, went in unto them, and three sabbath days reasoned with them out of the scriptures,” – Acts 17:1,2

Ancient theater, Thessalonica.
Roman Agora (marketplace), Thessalonica.
More ruins at Thessaloniki.

The Roman road, Via Egnatia, passed through Thessalonica and connected Byzantium to the region of Illyricum on the Eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea across from Italy. Today the region of Illyricum is part of the country of Albania. Paul very likely traveled the Via Egnatia as he journeyed to Illyricum.

” Through mighty signs and wonders, by the power of the Spirit of God; so that from Jerusalem, and round about unto Illyricum, I have fully preached the gospel of Christ.” – Romans 15:19

When Paul arrived in Thessalonica there was already a Jewish community there. For three sabbaths “he reasoned with them out of the scriptures”, most likely in the synagogue. Paul later wrote two letters to the church at Thessalonica. In the first letter, Paul commended them for their diligence in evangelism throughout the region of Macedonia and Achaia. Achaia encompassed the region to the South of Greece including Athens, Corinth, and the Peloponnese peninsula.

“So that ye were ensamples to all that believe in Macedonia and Achaia. 8  For from you sounded out the word of the Lord not only in Macedonia and Achaia, but also in every place your faith to God-ward is spread abroad;” – 1 Thes. 1:7,8

Aegean Sea from Thessaloniki.

The Jewish population of Thessalonica surged in 1492 when Spain expelled their Jewish population. A fire in 1917 devastated the Jewish quarter. At that time the Jewish population exceeded 65,000 people. Interestingly, it was in 1917 that the Balfour Declaration set the stage for the establishment of the state of Israel.

During WW2 Greece was occupied by Germany. Between March and August 1943, more than 45,000 Jewish people from Thessalonica were shipped to Auschwitz where they died in the death camps. The once large and vibrant Jewish community was all but wiped out.

The only synagogue in Thessalonica that was not damaged during WW2 was the Monastir Synagogue. During the war the Red Cross used the synagogue as a warehouse.

The Ten Commandments displayed on the Monastir Synagogue in Thessalonica.

The Jewish Museum was opened in Thessalonica’s old Jewish quarter in 2001. It definitely merits a visit for anyone interested in Jewish history.

Colosse

“Paul, an apostle of Jesus Christ by the will of God, and Timotheus our brother, to the saints and faithful brethren in Christ which are at Colosse…” – Colossians 1:1,2

If it were not for the sign, Colosse would be easy to miss. Unlike neighboring Laodicea and Hieropolis, Colosse has never been excavated.

Colosse is mentioned by name just one time in the Bible, in the salutation of the letter that Paul wrote to the church at Colosse (Colossians 1:2). Colosse, Laodicea, and Hierapolis are all in close proximity to one another. Paul made mention of Laodicea and Hierapolis as he closed out his letter to the church at Colosse (Colossians 4:13).

Hierapolis

For I bear him record, that he (Epaphras) hath a great zeal for you, and them that are in Laodicea, and them in Hierapolis. – Colossians 4:13

Roman theater at Hierapolis, constructed in the second century AD.

Hierapolis is a 15 minute drive north of the ruins at ancient Laodicea, and about a 30 minute drive from Colossae. The three cities formed a “tri-city” area. Paul made reference to Laodicea and Hieropolis in his letter to the church at Colossae. The region is known as Phrygia. Paul passed through the area during his third missionary journey. Acts 16:6  Â¶Now when they had gone throughout Phrygia and the region of Galatia, and were forbidden of the Holy Ghost to preach the word in Asia,

The modern name for Hierapolis is Pamukkale. Pamuk is the name used for cotton in Turkish as well as in all of the Slavic languages spoken on the Balkan peninsula. The white travertine terraces of Pamukkale are a result of deposits from the hot springs in the area.

Many believe that the apostle Philip was martyred at Hierapolis. There are many ruins on the hill above the ancient theater, including the alleged tomb of the apostle Philip.

Assos

And we went before to ship, and sailed unto Assos, there intending to take in Paul: for so had he appointed, minding himself to go afoot. And when he met with us at Assos, we took him in, and came to Mitylene. – Act 20:13,14

Ancient Roman theater at Assos.

On the return of the third missionary journey Paul walked the distance from Troas to Assos while the other eight in his party sailed the distance. Those accompanying Paul were “…Sopater of Berea; and of the Thessalonians, Aristarchus and Secundus; and Gaius of Derbe, and Timotheus; and of Asia, Tychicus and Trophimus. 5  These going before tarried for us at Troas. – Acts 20:4,5 Luke, the writer of Acts included himself in verse 5.

Not much is said about Assos other than that they all met up there and continued to Mitylene. On a clear day the northern coast of Mitylene island can be seen from Assos on mainland Turkey.

Today the mainstay of Assos seems to be fishing and tourism. Departing from Troas, we spent only a couple hours in Assos before continuing south toward Berga Turkey (ancient Pergamos).

Troas

“…when I came to Troas to preach Christ’s gospel, and a door was opened unto me of the Lord,” 2 Corinthians 2:12

Ruins at ancient Troas. Aegean Sea and the Turkish island of Bozcaada in background.

It was at Troas, during his second missionary journey, that the Apostle Paul received the “Macedonian Call”. “And a vision appeared to Paul in the night; There stood a man of Macedonia, and prayed him, saying, Come over into Macedonia, and help us.” – Acts 16:9

The vision at Troas changed Paul’s course. Rather than continuing to Bythinia, the region just South of the Black Sea, Paul immediately set sail for Macedonia.

During the time of the Roman Empire, Troas was a major port for sailing vessels traveling between Anatolia (Turkey) and Europe. The Apostle Paul passed through Troas on both his second and third missionary journeys.

The day we visited Troas, we had it all to ourselves. A narrow dirt road leads to the archeological site. The view of the Aegean Sea from Troas is spectacular.

From Troas to Assos

And we went before to ship, and sailed unto Assos, there intending to take in Paul: for so had he appointed, minding himself to go afoot. – Acts 20:13

Remains of the road that Paul most likely walked as he made his way from Troas down to Assos, where he met up with the others in his party.

Temple of Apollon Smintheion – Traveling from Troas to Assos, we took a coastal road. As we entered the village of Gulpinar we couldn’t help but notice the archeological site of Smintheion. The temple was dedicated to Apollo, “Lord of Mice.” A poem in Homer’s Iliad makes reference to the temple.

We found a small restaurant in Gulpinar and enjoyed a wonderful lunch before continuing to Assos. Along the way we passed some sheepfolds. My mind turned to John chapter 10 where Jesus, the Good Shepherd said ” I am the door: by me if any man enter in, he shall be saved, and shall go in and out, and find pasture.” – John 10:9

Philippi

“And from thence to Philippi, which is the chief city of that part of Macedonia, and a colony: and we were in that city abiding certain days.” – Acts 16:12

Ancient theater at Philippi.

During his second missionary journey, the Apostle Paul had his eyes set on Asia. God had other plans, and while in Troas, “There stood a man of Macedonia, and prayed him, saying, Come over into Macedonia and help us.” – Acts 16:9

Not many days later, Paul and company arrived in Philippi, “the chief city of that part of Macedonia….”- Acts 16:12

Inscribed on the lower sections of the two stones “Province Macedonia” and “Philip”. Philippi was named after Phillip II, father of Alexander the Great. Before being named Philippi, the city was knows as Krinides and was a colony of nearby Thassos island. A village adjacent to Philippi bears the name “Krinides”.
A tile mosaic in the entrance of a Greek orthodox church near the baptism site of Lydia maps out much of Paul’s second missionary journey. The names of the cities in English were photo edited in.

Acts 16:13  And on the sabbath we went out of the city by a river side, where prayer was wont to be made; and we sat down, and spake unto the women which resorted thither.
14  And a certain woman named Lydia, a seller of purple, of the city of Thyatira, which worshipped God, heard us: whose heart the Lord opened, that she attended unto the things which were spoken of Paul.
15  And when she was baptized, and her household, she besought us, saying, If ye have judged me to be faithful to the Lord, come into my house, and abide there. And she constrained us.

The place thought to be the baptism site of Lydia is less than one mile from the ancient theater at Philippi.

Neapolis (Kavala Greece)

Therefore loosing from Troas, we came with a straight course to Samothracia, and the next day to Neapolis; – Acts 16:11

Kavala Greece (Neapolis)

During his second missionary journey, the Apostle Paul arrived at Neapolis (Kavala) on his way to Philippi. He returned to the area during his third missionary journey. “And we sailed away from Philippi…..” – Acts 20:6.

Neapolis was the port city for Philippi. The city was on the Via Egnatia, the Roman road running East to West, connecting Byzantium (Constantinople/Istanbul) to the Adriatic cost. The modern highway is known as the Egnatia Odos and parallels the old Roman road from Thessaloniki, Eastward through Kavala (Neapolis), and into Turkey. A section of the old Roman road is still visible along the highway from Kavala to Philippi.

Kavala is served by “Alexander the Great Airport” as well as a host of ferry lines that serve the islands in the Northern Mediterranean.

Samothrace Greece

“…. loosing from Troas, we came with a straight course to Samothracia, and the next day to Neapolis; 12  And from thence to Philippi, which is the chief city of that part of Macedonia…” – Acts 16:11,12

The port on the Greek island of Samothrace.

During the apostle Paul’s second missionary journey, he received the Macedonian call while at Troas, “Come over into Macedonia and help us.” – Acts 16:9. Paul and company immediately set sail for Neapolis (modern day Kavala Greece), with a stop on the island of Samothrace.

The island was a seat of cult worship. There are significant ruins on the North side of the island. The complex is known as “The Sanctuary of the Great Gods.”

Samothrace can be reached by ferryboat from both Alexandroupolis and Kavala Greece. We took a ferry from Alexandroupolis. The trip took about two hours.

Mitylene (Lesvos island), Greece

“And when he met with us at Assos, we took him in, and came to Mitylene.” – Acts 20:14

Mytilene, the capitol city of Lesvos island.

The Greek island of Lesvos, also known as Mitylene, was visited by the apostle Paul while returning from his third missionary journey. Leaving Troas, Paul walked the distance to Assos while the rest of his party made the journey by sailing ship. Meeting up in Assos, they sailed the short distance to Mitylene, not more than 30 miles.

Paul and his companions stopped briefly on the island in the year AD 56. From Mitylene, the party sailed near the island of Chios before arriving on the island of Samos.

Getting there – Lesvos can be reached by ferry boat from Athens and Thessaloniki, as well as from Avalik Turkey. Flights arrive regularly from Athens and Thessaloniki. A great resource that we often use for searching flights is skyscanner.net.

Lesvos during the refugee crisis

The war in Syria sparked a mass migration to Europe, specifically to Germany, following German Chancellor Angela’s Merkel’s invitation in August 2015. Ten’s of thousands made the approximately 2500 mile journey from Turkey to Germany. For many, Lesvos island was their gateway to Europe.

In November 2015 we were living in Sofia Bulgaria. After watching the news reports and reading the headlines surrounding the refugee crisis, my wife asked me if I had thought about going to Lesvos. I responded, “yes, it’s been on my mind, but I didn’t think you would be interested.” Two days later we drove our car from Sofia to Thessaloniki and caught a flight to Mytilene. We witnessed history in the making. The people we met and the things we saw were life changing.