April 2020 - Travel to the Bible Lands

Two days in Israel.

Our flight to Israel arrived at Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport about 9:00 am. In less than an hour we were in our rental car and on our way to Jaffa (Joppa), a 30 minute drive from the airport.

Jaffa

At Jaffa, Jonah “found a ship going to Tarshish: so he paid the fare thereof, and went down into it, to go with them unto Tarshish from the presence of the LORD.” – Jonah 1:3.

At Jaffa, wood was brought in from Lebanon for use in constructing Solomon’s Temple. – “Solomon determined to build an house for the name of the LORD, and an house for his kingdom.” – 2 Chronicles 2:1 “And we will cut wood out of Lebanon, as much as thou shalt need: and we will bring it to thee in floats by sea to Joppa; and thou shalt carry it up to Jerusalem.” – 2 Chronicles 2:16

Again, during the time of Ezra, wood was brought in from Lebanon for use in the temple reconstruction. – “They gave money also unto the masons, and to the carpenters; and meat, and drink, and oil, unto them of Zidon, and to them of Tyre, to bring cedar trees from Lebanon to the sea of Joppa, according to the grant that they had of Cyrus king of Persia.” – Ezra 3:7

At Jaffa Tabitha was raised from the dead. – Acts 9:36-42

Stairs from Jaffa’s port area up to the old city.

At Jaffa (Joppa), Peter was praying on Simon’s rooftop when the men sent by Cornelius came for him. Acts chapter 10.

Caesarea

Leaving Jaffa around 11:30 am we passed through Tel Aviv on our way to Caesarea. When we stopped for lunch we heard the hissing sound of air leaking from one of the tires on the rental car. Fortunately there was a tire shop nearby and we weren’t delayed long.

Caesarea was one of King Herod’s massive building projects including the Temple Mount and Masada. Caesarea has been called “Rome away from Rome.” The Roman centurion Cornelius was stationed at Caesarea when he sent for Peter.

It was at Caesarea that the Apostle Paul was “kept in Herod’s judgement hall” (Acts 23:35 until Ananias the high priest and Tertullus (a Jewish Lawyer) arrived from Jerusalem. Following his trial at Caesarea, Paul was sent to Rome to appeal his charges before Caesar.

King Herod’s pool at Ceasarea, located on the Mediterranean Sea just north of Tel Aviv.

The “Pilate Stone” at Caesarea was discovered in 1961. The original stone is at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem.

At Caesarea are the remains of a man made harbor, a large hippodrome where chariot races were held, an ancient theater, an aqueduct, and remains of the city walls.

We departed from Caesarea in mid afternoon headed for the Sea of Galilee. Normally the drive would take about an hour and a half but we lost some time while looking for a viewpoint of the Jezreel Valley from Mount Carmel. We arrived in Capernaum about 4:00 pm, just as it was closing and the last of the tour buses were leaving.

Capernaum

With the crowds of tourists gone, we sat in the quietness of the late afternoon, gazing out over the Sea of Galilee, savoring the moment, taking in the place where so much of Christ’s ministry took place.

A Greek Orthodox Monastery at Capernaum was about the only place still open so late in the day.

Donkeys near the Greek Orthodox Monastery at Capernaum.

Capernaum to Jerusalem

Leaving Capernaum, we traveled South along the Western shore of the Sea of Galilee, passing the city of Tiberius and continuing South through the Jordan River Valley.

A tank that I assume is from the Six Day War was abandoned along highway 90. The highway traverses the Jordan River Valley from the Sea of Galilee all the way South to the Red Sea at Eilat.

Beit Shean

As we made our way from Capernaum to Jerusalem we made a brief stop at Beit-Shean. It was late in the day and well past visiting hours. We stood outside the fence and gazed at the ruins during the last light of the day. The archeological site at Beit Shean merits at least 3-4 hours. It can be very hot during the Summer and early Fall.

Continuing South through the Jordan River Valley there is a junction just past Jericho. To the South is the Dead Sea and to the West is Jerusalem. We turned onto highway 1 toward Jerusalem and began the ascent from the Dead Sea region, 1300 feet below sea level, to Jerusalem, about 2500 feet above sea level. Somewhere along the way we surely passed the place where the Samaritan came to the aid of a man that was robbed, beaten, and left for dead (Luke 10:25-37).

By the time we arrived in Jerusalem about twelve hours had passed since arriving at the airport in Tel Aviv that morning. After locating our hotel and a place to park the rental car, we set out to find something to eat along the Ben Yehuda walking street, adjacent to Jerusalem’s Old City.

Day 2 – Israel

Jerusalem

Gazing toward the Mount of Olives. The Western Wall and the Temple Mount are in the left foreground.

On the morning of our second day we stopped for coffee along the Ben Yehuda walk street before entering the old city at the Jaffa Gate.

Inside Jerusalem’s Old City we took in the sites at the Western Wall and Temple Mount before passing through the Muslim quarter and exiting through the Damascus Gate.

The Garden Tomb is a short walk from the Damascus Gate.

By the time we finished up at the Garden Tomb we had been walking for the better part of five hours and welcomed a break. We ate lunch at the Ramon Cafe near Zion Square before walking back to our hotel.

The Dead Sea

After a short nap we discussed our options for the remainder of the day and decided to drive down to the Dead Sea, about a 40 minute drive East of Jerusalem.

Kalia Beach at the North shore of the Dead Sea is a popular soak. The mud is therapeutic and the water is almost ten times saltier than ocean water.

It’s impossible to sink but don’t get the water in your eyes as it is very unpleasant and the only way to get relief is by flushing with fresh water.

After a relaxing soak we hydrated with some fresh pomegranate juice and continued South along the Western shoreline of the Dead Sea.

We passed Qumran, the place where the Dead Sea scrolls were discovered and continued driving down the coastline as far as En Gedi.

Qumran Caves where the Dead Sea scrolls were discovered.

At En Gedi David “dwelt in the strongholds” as he fled Saul. 1 Samuel 23:29

Solomon likened his lover to “a cluster of camphire in the vineyards of Engedi.” – Song of Solomon 1:14

We enjoyed a dinner buffet at the Kibbutz in En Gedi before driving back to Jerusalem.

The following morning we drove to the airport, turned in the rental car and returned to Sofia on a direct flight with WizzAir.

Galilee

Capernaum

“Now when Jesus had heard that John was cast into prison, he departed into Galilee; 13 And leaving Nazareth, he came and dwelt in Capernaum, which is upon the sea coast, in the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim:” – Matt. 4:12,13

Chorazin

“Woe unto thee, Chorazin! woe unto thee, Bethsaida! for if the mighty works had been done in Tyre and Sidon, which have been done in you, they had a great while ago repented, sitting in sackcloth and ashes.” – Luke 10:13

The Chorazin archeological site is high on the hill above the Northern shore of the Sea of Galilee, about 10 minutes by car from Capernaum.

Only a small portion of ancient city of Chorazin has been excavated.

The Seven Churches of Asia

“I am Alpha and Omega, the first and the last: and, What thou seest, write in a book, and send it unto the seven churches which are in Asia; unto Ephesus, and unto Smyrna, and unto Pergamos, and unto Thyatira, and unto Sardis, and unto Philadelphia, and unto Laodicea.” – Revelation 1:11

The sites of the “Seven Churches of Asia are all in Western Turkey. The nearest airports are at Izmir (Smyrna) and Denizli, near Laodicia.

Near Laodicea is ancient Hieropolis. Colosse is also in the area but has not been excavated.

Colossians 4:13 For I bear him record, that he hath a great zeal for you, and them that are in Laodicea, and them in Hierapolis.

Ephesus

Of all seven archeological sites associated with the “Seven Churches of Asia”, the ruins at Ephesus are the most substantial. In order to walk downhill and not backtrack, it works out well to park in the main lot and hire one of the horse drawn carriages to shuttle you to the entrance at the upper end of the ruins.

Woman knotting a wool rug at Selcuk Turkey near Ephesus.

Smyrna

“And unto the angel of the church in Smyrna write; These things saith the first and the last, which was dead, and is alive;” – Rev. 2:8

Izmir Turkey (ancient Smyrna) is about 50 miles North of Ephesus and about 70 miles South of ancient Pergamos (Bergama Turkey). Izmir is on Turkey’s Aegean coast and is the third largest city in the country, with a population of more than four million people.

Early church history: Polycarp (AD 69 -156) was longtime pastor at Smyrna. He was very likely a disciple of the Apostle John. Polycarp died a martyr’s death at the hands of the Romans.

Kemeralti Market, Izmir. Lots of shops and eateries.

Pergamos

“And to the angel of the church in Pergamos write; These things saith he which hath the sharp sword with two edges;” – Rev. 2:12

“I know thy works, and where thou dwellest, even where Satan’s seat is: and thou holdest fast my name, and hast not denied my faith, even in those days wherein Antipas was my faithful martyr, who was slain among you, where Satan dwelleth.” – Rev. 2:13

Two trees at the site of the Temple of Zeus, also known as the Pergamos Altar, “where Satans’s seat is”. Rev. 2:13

The Pergamon Altar was constructed during the reign of King Eumenes II during the 2nd century BC. As the polytheistic religions became overshadowed by Christianity the Pergamon Altar was abandoned and for the next 2000 years fell into obscurity until the late 1870’s.

In 1871, German archeologist Carl Humann sent fragments of the Pergamon altar to Berlin, the same year the German Empire was established. Excavation of the site began in earnest in 1878 and within a year, relief panels and friezes from the Pergamon Altar were being shipped to Berlin.

The first “Pergamon Museum” opened in Berlin in 1901. At the end of World War II the Red Army took parts of the altar to the Soviet Union as a war trophy. The altar remained in Leningrad (Saint Petersburg) until 1958 when it was returned to East Germany.

Hitler’s chief architect Albert Speer found inspiration from the Pergamon Altar when he designed the Nazi Party rally grounds in Nuremberg. It was here that Hitler announced his “final solution”known as the Holocaust that resulted in the death of six million Jews and others.

Millions were put to death under the totalitarian communist regimes of the Soviet Union. Is it a mere coincidence that the Nazis and the Soviets, responsible for millions upon millions of deaths, were the keepers of Pergamon’s “Seat of Satan”?

Arched tunnels supporting the Temple of Trajan at Pergamos.

Thyatira

“And unto the angel of the church in Thyatira write; These things saith the Son of God, who hath his eyes like unto a flame of fire, and his feet are like fine brass;” – Rev. 2:18

The city of Thyatira is named in the Book of Revelation and also in the Book of Acts. At Philippi, “Lydia, a seller of purple, of the city of Thyatira” received Christ and was baptized. Acts 16:14,15

The ancient Greek city of Thyatira is now the modern Turkish city of Akhisar. The drive from Bergama (Pergamos) to Akhisar (Thyatira) is just over an hour. The ruins of the ancient city are contained in about one block square. Nearby is a museum with exhibits of artifacts found in the area as well as a rug making loom, cultural clothing, and other items.

A monument at Thyatira. Anyone read Greek?

Sardis

“And unto the angel of the church in Sardis write; These things saith he that hath the seven Spirits of God, and the seven stars; I know thy works, that thou hast a name that thou livest, and art dead.” – Rev. 3:1

The drive from Akhisar (Thyatira) to the ruins at Sardis takes less than an hour. The archeological site spans both sides of the highway. For the fit and adventurous, the Sardis Acropolis sits high atop the hill above the Temple of Artemis ruins.

The synagogue ruins at Sardis were discovered in 1962. The enormity of the complex indicates a large Jewish population. The writings of Josephus mention a Jewish population at Sardis. “Lucius Antonius, the son of Marcus, vice-quaestor, and vice-pretor, to the magistrates, senate, and people of the Sardians, sendeth greeting. Those Jews that are our fellow-citizens of Rome, came to me, and demonstrated that they had an assembly of their own, according to the laws of their forefathers…….” – Antiquities of the Jews, Book XIV, chap. X, sect. 17. This would indicate a Jewish community in Sardis at least as far back as the 1st Century AD.

An article at https://www.bh.org.il/the-ancient-synagogue-of-sardis-turkey states, ” The beginnings of the Jewish settlement in Sardis are believed to belong to the 3rd century BCE, when Jews from Babylonia and other countries were encouraged to settle in the city by the Seleucid King Antiochus III (223-187 BCE).”

Sardis Temple of Artemis. Construction began about 300 BC.

4th Century BC Byzantine mortuary chapel built on the site of The Temple of Artemis.

Locals gathered at a cafe near the Sardis archeological site.

Philadelphia

And to the angel of the church in Philadelphia write; These things saith he that is holy, he that is true, he that hath the key of David, he that openeth, and no man shutteth; and shutteth, and no man openeth; – Rev 3:7

The site of the Philadelphia Church is at the modern Turkish town of Alesehir Turkey, about 30 miles East of the ruins at Sardis. There is not much to see other than the ruins of a Byzantine era church.

Laodicea

“And unto the angel of the church of the Laodiceans write; These things saith the Amen, the faithful and true witness, the beginning of the creation of God;” – Rev 3:14

The archeological site of Laodicea is near the modern Turkish city of Denizli. From Alesehir (Philadelphia) it is about a two hour drive Southeast to the region of Laodicea. While in the area of Laodicea, nearby Hieropolis/Pamukkale is a must see.

Standing at Laodicea, the imagery of Rev. 3:15,16 becomes quite evident. In Jesus’ address to the church at Laodicea He said: “I know thy works, that thou art neither cold nor hot: I would thou wert cold or hot. So then because thou art lukewarm, and neither cold nor hot, I will spue thee out of my mouth.” – Rev 3:15,16

Looking North from Laodicia, the white cliffs resulting from the hot water springs at Hieropolis/Pamukkale are clearly visible. Looking to the South are the often snow capped mountains in the region of Colosse, a source of cold and clear water. This was the water source for Laodicea. By the time the water flowed through the clay pipes and arrived at Laodicea it was lukewarm.